The Italian Job

Venice is sinking approximately 6 cm a decade. You can see how the city is sinking by the numerous stairs and steps that are now under water.

Venice Grand Canal.

Sinking steps.

The city is an archipelago of 170 different islands.  There are no cars, trucks, trains or bikes in the city.  Only boats.  Due to the many canals, most bridges have stairs and as a result you can only get around by walking (or by boat). 

View of islands.

The fire department arrives by boat.

Construction supplies arrive by boat, too!

The famous Rialto Bridge.

The entire city is rock and water.  There is no grass (that I could find!).  I wonder where all the Chihuahuas go?

The canals are surrounded by old palaces and the age of some of these buildings is showing. 

Aging Venetian palaces.

Side canal.

The main square in Venice is the San Marco Piazza.  It is surrounded by the Doge's Palace and Basilica San Marco.  The Basilica is a grand church that is filled with gold.  The four large domes of the church interior are covered in small gold squares and frescos.  I loved how the gold sparkled and the mystery of how the artists created such intricate work.  It was unlike any church I have seen so far in Europe.

San Marco Piazza: Not sure who is outnumbered - the tourists or the pigeons?

St. Mark's Cathedral.

The Doge was the ancient ruler of the city.  His palace is also filled with gold.  Golden walls, golden ceilings and the famous Golden Stairway.  No expense was spared for the Doge.  I viewed the old prisons hidden under the palace including the Bridge of Sighs where many prisoners crossed to meet their fate.

Ceiling of the Golden Stairway.

A trip to Venice would not be complete without a gondola ride.  The gondola drivers all wear striped shirts, and they have their work cut out for them.  The canals are very busy and we often hit traffic jams of other gondolas, water taxis and personal boats.

My gondola.

Gondola traffic jam.

The gondola drivers must wind their way through the traffic, duck for the low bridges and they even use their feet to push off the walls. 

Gondolier ducking under a bridge and using his foot.

Don't fall in!

Thankfully I wasn't in the Titanic - there were no lifejackets and we hit a lot of walls and smashed other boats!  Good thing my driver was so good looking otherwise I may have wanted my money back.

Smashingly handsome Gondolier.

The view from the canal is very unique.  There are wooden doors on the water that are rotting.  Garages to enter houses from the water exist, just like in the movies.  There is a quiet and slow pace to Venice with the lack of cars.  The Grand Canal is noisy with motor boats and vaporettos (steamer boats that ferry people from place to place) but once you duck into the side canals, the silence is a pleasing respite.

Rotten doors.

Canal garage entrance.

Walking in Venice is a maze of side streets, piazzas and dead ends.  It is better to go without a map.  On all the buildings there are arrows pointed to where you want to go.  Just follow the arrows and you can get anywhere in the city.  I really appreciate this nice touch.  As a tourist it feels very liberating to put your map into your pocket and leave it there for a day or two.

Venice is a place that should be on your bucket list; it is a 'must see'.  You don't need to spend too much time among the canals.  Two days is enough.  There are hoards and hoards of tourist shops selling masquerade masks, gondola hats, and Murano glass. 

The merchants of Venice are a plenty.

Every shop has the same product that must be mass produced in China.  It ruins the special, unique feel of Venice so make sure you take the canal less travelled.

The Sound of Music

The hills are alive in Vienna.   I feel that Vienna is the city of  everything.  It has history, palaces, and museums in contrast with modern office towers and advanced architecture. 

Vienna Museum (one of many).

Beautiful blue Danube river with a restaurant, bar and swimming pool.

Along the Danube canal there are many beach bars with sand and deck chairs.

The city is very clean and filled with grand rivers and refined parks.  Vienna is elegant, regal, alluring and serene, and full of Mozart .

There are Mozart stores on every corner.

My new favorite chocolate - the Mozart Kugeln.

My train ride into Vienna was a tough one.  It was 30 degrees and the train had no air conditioning and no windows that opened.  I was not feeling well and it was a five hour ride in a cabin stuffed with 5 other people.  My cabin-mate from Brazil called it hell. 

One of Vienna's train stations - Hutteldorf.

Upon arriving in Vienna, everything was closed.  I did not have a map as I usually pick one up at the info booth at the train station.  Oops, that was closed too.  Luckily I have a Frommers guide book and I managed to figure out how to take 2 metro trains to the general area of where I was staying.  The book didn't have enough detail to get me to my apartment that I rented.  I decided to be adventurous and venture out in the heat with all my luggage.  Luckily after about 20 blocks - I found it! 

Sadly, the apartment was also closed.  I was locked out.  It's Sunday in Vienna and Zanner is stranded.   Ah, the joys of traveling!  I managed to walk around with all my luggage until I found a phone booth, called the apartment owner and sorted everything out.  Keep in mind that all stores and restaurants were closed.  It made for a long night in my apartment with only some crackers to eat.  Good thing I have plenty of stored reserves.

My apartment was tastefully decorated with Gustav Klimt artwork (Vienna's famous artist).

A travellers dream - a modern, full bath AND laundry.

After the ordeal of my Viennese arrival (which was on my birthday nonetheless), I treated myself to a Mozart and Strauss concert with a 30 piece orchestra in the famous Musikereunde Golden Hall, home of the Vienna Philharmonic.  

Vienna Philharmonic Concert Hall - the Musikereunde.

The musicians dressed up in typical costumes complete with wigs just like Mozart would have worn.  It was a fun concert as the conductor turned to the audience and would let us clap along.  Not the stuffy, uptight concert I was expecting.   The orchestra stole the show with Strauss' "Blue Danube" waltz.

Musicians a la Mozart.

Just outside Vienna is the Schonbrunn palace.  It has beautiful gardens (similar to Versailles) and a large tower.  I climbed the tower to view the grandeur that is Vienna. 



The Gloriette tower on Schonbrunn Hill.



View of Schonbrunn Palace and Vienna from the Gloriette.

The grounds at Schonbrunn also contain a zoo.  I am personally against zoos as I believe that all animals prefer their native setting and not cages.   I did not visit (on principal) but I will give a shout-out to this zoo as they have reversed the set-up.  The people now walk in the enclosures and the animals are free to roam about.

Statue next to the zoo at Schonbrunn.

One of the most fun things to do in Vienna is visit the Prater park.  The Prater is an amusement park filled with fun rides that we don't have in Canada. 

The famous Prater ferris wheel.

I could not stop laughing as I watched the kids on the rides, screaming as they got wet or were spun upside down in a frenzy.  Laughter truly is the best medicine.

The ride operator teased these kids with the water and then finally soaked them -
much to the enjoyment of those watching.

Due to the train schedule, I did not have time to enjoy any rides.  I figure you are never too old to have fun so promised myself to return to this park someday to ride the Prater Turm. 

Prater Turm in the distance.

Prater Turm in the sun.

As I enjoy my year of travel, instead of simply ticking off items on my bucket list, I seem to be adding new ones.  Now that's music to my ears!

The Devil Wears Praha

I came a long way to see this view.  Praha, known as Prague in English, is an ancient town with a strong medieval feel.  You walk up, up, up many steps surrounded by the walls of the Prague castle.  Once you arrive at the top, you peak over the wall for one of the worlds most amazing views.

Prague view from the Castle.

Old Town ancient wall and towers.

Below the castle are many buildings all with red roofs.  The river sparkles in the sun as it winds through the lower landscape.

I was not aware that the yellow Penguinus Plasticus migrated through the Czech Republic.

View of the famous Charles Bridge.

My first stop was unplanned.  As I worked my way to the main tourist sites, I could hear music along the river.  A very low key beer garden was set-up along the river.  A young Bohemian was playing guitar so I detoured for a pint of Czech beer.  I enjoyed watching the people in paddle boats on the river, and listening to well known songs delivered melodically in a Czech accent.

Bohemian guitar player.

River cruises and castle views.

Once back on track, I headed to the Castle.  The main site in the Castle plaza was St. Vitus Cathedral. 

St. Vitus Cathedral.

Upon entering I was awestruck.  The grandeur and stained glass was a beautiful kaleidoscope of color.  There were different chapels full of fresh flowers and the smell of lilies added a special touch.  I have never taken so many photos in one place before!

One of many colorful stained glass windows.

Kaleidoscope of colors.

A close up of the intricate details.

After the castle I stopped in the Lobkowicz Palace  for a Trio Concert.  In the music hall, I enjoyed an intimate concert with a piano, flute and violin. 

Mozart loved to visit Prague so there were many Mozart pieces in the concert as well as local favorite and Prague native, Anton Dvorak.  There were only about 30 people in the room, and I was in the second row.  I loved feeling like I had my own private concert.

Music is everywhere in Prague.  As I walked through the Old Town, I would follow the sounds of music tucked away in little corners.  I especially enjoyed the Staromestsky Dixieland band.

Band playing in a Prague plaza.

Clarinet solo.

However, an elderly gentleman named Anton stole the show.  I am guessing this man is in his late 70's.  Boy could he belt out the tunes!  He sang in Czech, English and Spanish, all fun songs like "Just a Gigolo".  He also played the saxophone AND trombone.  He was the heart and soul of the main plaza and everyone was dancing, clapping and happy to be witnessing such an energetic, talented character.  If I was 40 years older I certainly would have developed a crush on this guy.

Anton the Supermusician.

Every hour, the medieval knights played their trumpets from the top of the guard towers.  Every hour, the tourists stopped what they were doing, looked up to listen, and clapped for the performance.  There is an astrological clock that performs on the hour.  Tourists clapped for that as well.  Hopefully the trumpeters don't feel bad.

Astrological clock.

My favorite memory of Prague was my dinner along the river.  I randomly picked a restaurant close to the water with a nice view.  I was flipping through my map when the couple next to me asked where I was visiting from.  After chatting, they invited me to sit with them at their table.  Oh conversation, how I have missed thee!  Bill and Marlene Wertheim are from New York and are visiting Prague on their way home from Haifa, Israel.  We had a lovely evening sharing travel stories.  I am very thankful to Bill & Marlene for including me and for being so kind.

The Wertheims:  kindred travel spirits.

In the evening I rode the funicular up to the Petrin, or the Rozhledna, which is a steel tower similar to the Eiffel Tower.  Again, more stairs!  As the sun was setting, there were no line ups (this is a first for me in Europe!).  The most beautiful view was mine alone.  No photograph can capture a time like this.

The Rozhledna, Prague's viewing tower.  Yes, I walked up all those stairs.